We left Delhi at 7 a.m. on Saturday morning for Mandawa, which is 240 km. away. A trip that anywhere else in the world might take you 4 hours, took 7 1/2 hours. One cannot explain the traffic on the "highway" ; which turned out to be a parkway on several occasions. Although frustrating, this is understandable, considering the rapid growth of the economy in the last three years or so. The infrastructure simply cannot keep up. Cars make their own lanes, which we thought was just a Delhi phenomena, but this also took place on the highway. At times going across the meridien and going through service stations to pass vehicles and get further ahead. You simply cannot imagine. We took a few pictures of the traffic (which we will post at a later date, as this internet connection very slow) but not sure they would do it justice. Our driver Singh is very good and he predicted at the outset it would take 7 to 8 hours.
Finally arrived in Mandawa about 3 p.m. It is a very small town which is know for its'' Haveli's (stately home owned by a wealthy merchant). The houses are very large and have intricate sculpted marble windows and wonderfully painted frescoed walls. The paintings depict their present world (God and Goddesses and heroes) mixed in with their changing world (the British, railways and the army) symbolizing an emerging society in the late 19th century. As you enter a home, if it has one elephant painted this means "welcome"änd if two elephants it means "Good Luck".
We stayed in a 200 year old Heritage Hotel which was also a former Haveli. The paintings here were also very beautiful, but you could tell the hotel needed some work, yet had a unique character in its own way. They had wonderful outdoor areas on both the first and second floor, where we spent some time and watched the sun set. We walked through the village and local market accompanied by a young local boy who took us through the Haveli's. He was smooth talking character who would try to sell you anything.
The Village of Mandawa has a population of 25,000 of which 10,000 are Muslim. We were awaken at 6 a.m. by the Iman call to prayer. Actually an interesting alarm! It has been very cool in the mornings and you have to wear a sweater for the first hour or so, then warms up nicely. Mandawa is a little off the beaten track so not too many tourists. Certainly must say that we are stared at walking through the Village. A bustling, dirty, shabby place, with buses, cars, tuk tuks, camels, cows, donkeys and humans sharing the streets. The women in the Rajasthan wear colourful saris, even when working on the streets and fields. Something interesting to see wherever you look.
BIKANER
Next stop was Bikaner, some 188 kms from Mandawa. Singh said that the road to Bikaner was "very good"", but we weren't sure what his definition of very good was. As it turned out, the road was o.k. and not too congested and only took 3 hours. Along the road we came across some "Jungle Cows", which look like a large elk with a cows head.
We went to tour the Junagarh Fort, which was built in 1593 by Raja Rai Singh. The last Maharaja was involved with the Raj (the occupation by the British) and fought in the first world war on the side of the allies. The palace contained a number of his artifacts as well as a significant collection of 18th and 19th century arms. This red sandstone fort is huge and is encircled by a moat. It has beautiful balconies and pierced screen windows which is where the women would watch what was going on, as they were not allowed to be outdoors.
Then went to visit a camel farm which is run by the government and is involved in the study and developement of superior breeds of camels. Some of the camels are exported to Arab countries and are also sold dometically for use as draft animals. Had some camel ice cream and it was quite creamy, but not very flavourful.
Next stop was a visit to the family Mausoleums of the local Maharajah's. Very impressive structures made of marble and red sandstone and intricatelly carved.
Today, Monday we drove to Jaisalmer some 331 kms. from Bikaner and took us about 6 hours. Will report on Jaisalmer in our next post.
Unfortunately, we cannot upload any pictures at this time, as the internet connection here in the desert is very slow.
Finally arrived in Mandawa about 3 p.m. It is a very small town which is know for its'' Haveli's (stately home owned by a wealthy merchant). The houses are very large and have intricate sculpted marble windows and wonderfully painted frescoed walls. The paintings depict their present world (God and Goddesses and heroes) mixed in with their changing world (the British, railways and the army) symbolizing an emerging society in the late 19th century. As you enter a home, if it has one elephant painted this means "welcome"änd if two elephants it means "Good Luck".
We stayed in a 200 year old Heritage Hotel which was also a former Haveli. The paintings here were also very beautiful, but you could tell the hotel needed some work, yet had a unique character in its own way. They had wonderful outdoor areas on both the first and second floor, where we spent some time and watched the sun set. We walked through the village and local market accompanied by a young local boy who took us through the Haveli's. He was smooth talking character who would try to sell you anything.
The Village of Mandawa has a population of 25,000 of which 10,000 are Muslim. We were awaken at 6 a.m. by the Iman call to prayer. Actually an interesting alarm! It has been very cool in the mornings and you have to wear a sweater for the first hour or so, then warms up nicely. Mandawa is a little off the beaten track so not too many tourists. Certainly must say that we are stared at walking through the Village. A bustling, dirty, shabby place, with buses, cars, tuk tuks, camels, cows, donkeys and humans sharing the streets. The women in the Rajasthan wear colourful saris, even when working on the streets and fields. Something interesting to see wherever you look.
BIKANER
Next stop was Bikaner, some 188 kms from Mandawa. Singh said that the road to Bikaner was "very good"", but we weren't sure what his definition of very good was. As it turned out, the road was o.k. and not too congested and only took 3 hours. Along the road we came across some "Jungle Cows", which look like a large elk with a cows head.
We went to tour the Junagarh Fort, which was built in 1593 by Raja Rai Singh. The last Maharaja was involved with the Raj (the occupation by the British) and fought in the first world war on the side of the allies. The palace contained a number of his artifacts as well as a significant collection of 18th and 19th century arms. This red sandstone fort is huge and is encircled by a moat. It has beautiful balconies and pierced screen windows which is where the women would watch what was going on, as they were not allowed to be outdoors.
Then went to visit a camel farm which is run by the government and is involved in the study and developement of superior breeds of camels. Some of the camels are exported to Arab countries and are also sold dometically for use as draft animals. Had some camel ice cream and it was quite creamy, but not very flavourful.
Next stop was a visit to the family Mausoleums of the local Maharajah's. Very impressive structures made of marble and red sandstone and intricatelly carved.
Today, Monday we drove to Jaisalmer some 331 kms. from Bikaner and took us about 6 hours. Will report on Jaisalmer in our next post.
Unfortunately, we cannot upload any pictures at this time, as the internet connection here in the desert is very slow.
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